BATAAN
Bataan is a warm,
really nice, wicked stone, up to 13+:
This is a
selection to get you going!
Driving from
There is a new area
at the First Cave, about 20 minutes from the pit, but when you coming up
here for a holiday, go to the 'Break Wall' (Sweet Hereafter), at least – then
you can warm up and move on up to the Nirvana area. (Always easier to hike back
down than up) The routes I am suggesting are classic, good, and will give you
just enough to do for a few days. There are other routes up here, but these
will keep you moving.
First stop; The
Break Wall (aka: Sweet-Hereafter) It'll take about 60 to 70 min. from the
parking, maybe a bit more with all your gear, but the eyes area will take you
about 80 – 85 min. at a 'guide' pace.
Fresco
Sort of fun – climbs just left of the blunt arête and crack. Pull the mini bugle and climb slab to the top of the crag. It will entertain you. |
5.11 30m |
|
Sweet Hereafter Climb nasty
rat-crack about 15m right of fresco and head up and right glue-in’s. - pulling the bulge is the crux. It then becomes a
navigation nightmare, as all holds look the same. A few other routes to it’s
right, but it’s the best line there. |
12- 30m |
The next area is
just up and around the corner. Called the Choss Pile
cave, noticeable for the large, low lying roof with a bunch of talus underneath
it. The route Crushed Velvet is on the 'Slab' wall to the left and down a few
meters from where the roof ends. This area needs some love – the steep roof
area has some wicked climbing on pockets – just that the route with the hangers
that climbs the main steep part, is bolted poorly – but the pocket pulling out
and over the bulge is really quite good.
|
Crushed Velvet The stone is really
good and so is this route. Does not get a lot of sun as the trees hide it
well. Glue-ins to the top. Funky move 2 bolts after you leave the 12a anchor.
12a to the halfway anchor – then 12b/c to the top. Locate via the
built landings – 2nd as you hit the wall – or the main switchback,
as it hits the wall. Top of route climbs a right facing corner to a bulge –
excellent stone. |
12c 30m |
|
5.11c route
with glue-ins Climb the grove –
about 5m left of where the big roof touches back to the ground – shorter –
the anchor is just below the mini-roof maybe halfway up this wall. Yellow
rock to grey stone. Maybe 6 bolts – nice to have a stick for the first bolt! |
11c 18m |
The next wall uphill
is the 'Cheese Crater' about 5-10 minutes. If you are heading here for your
warm-ups, you'll be happy as well, for the main developers, Chris and Ian Perry
(Father and Son) have done an excellent job of building quality routes.
|
Significant
Digits Climbs up broken
crack with a tree at the start. You will head towards a left facing corner –
here you go right and up the orange stone, climb for a bit and pull the grey
bulge – it’s very cool and then burly to the top. Hang on! |
11+ 30m |
|
Gold Finger Climb right of SD,
good solid stone and route – no give-away. Another “Perry” route. The father
and son team do a solid job and pick good lines. |
11+ 30m |
About 60 m up from
GF is the 'Swiss Cheese' wall – hard to miss, as it's really big, pocketed and steep.
You can warm-up on Pushing 40.
Just to the
right/uphill is a new route 13+ boulder section to get from the pockets to the
headwall.
|
Pushing 40 Climb left of the
big roof/crack on hangers. Up a crack system to a pocketed ledge - pulling a
bulge up and right – the crux. The rest is hanging on and it’s 37m long. With
rope stretch a 70m will work, otherwise you lower to the half way point. |
11a 37m |
|
Forever Young A wicked looking route
with an unfortunate boulder crux pulling onto the main headwall. |
13+ 35m |
|
Welcome to the Skylounge Good route with a
crappy start – if you can get over that – the rest of the route is really
good on good/stellar stone. |
12b/c 30m |
The next wall after
'swiss cheese' is where you'll find a bad 11 with
glue-in’s, probably walked right past it, then you
will notice to the left of Nirvana, a crack/flake system with expansion bolts
and then up and right, glue-in’s. These are 2 new
routes the hangers – 11c and the glue-in’s 12- both
very good. The direct route of the glue-in’s is an
old route called Sharpshooter 13+ boulder problem where the hangers are!
“warm-up”
I know it’s got a name? Devious and good burl. Locate just left of Nirvana – flake/crack at the bottom – climb the hangers – the glue in to the right of the 3rd bolt is the 12c. crux is the open book crack. |
11c 30m |
Trigger Happy
Not done this route, but have done Sharpshooter the original line, now overtaken by T.H. and the glue-in’s, which is nice nasty and fun. I presume that T.H. is nice, fun and fun? |
12b/c 30m |
Sharpshooter
Sent in a blizzard ‘94 – can’t say it’s a classic, but I can say it’s maybe better than Nirvana Direct! |
13b/c 30m |
Nirvana
Been here since 1991, and so’s the aid start, but once you get on the stone, you forget, as you’ve got 25m of some of the best stone in Canada. There’s a direct start by LeBlanc/Milton ’94 – can’t say it’s great, but it certainly adds a lot to the route maybe 13c. |
13a 25m |
Truckasuarus pitch 2 to Nirvana
Oh yeah! What a crag
set up, 12a on top of 13a. It’s a beauty and does not get many ascents. You
top out 45m above the ground. |
12a 20m |
|
24 frames per
second (aka: the Book of the Dead) Richard Jagger bolted this when his legs were smaller (Alpine
Alberta Ski coach/director) I finished it off and added some bolts and
lowered the anchor so your rope lasted longer that 1 day! It’s got a burl
start – with the crux over at the 3rd bolt. Could use a bolt in
the choss at the start? The route continues to come
at you all the way to the top, but if you send the start you’ll be sending. |
13a 25m |
|
Vishnu Bolted 1991, but
not sent as it had a “blank” section and then a few years back Ross Suchy sent the FA in a snow storm … Sweet route with all
types, steep pocket burl, crimpy, full-on slab – it’s going to be a classic. This route needs a
2nd pitch or full pitch, as you could easily climb all the way to
the top @ 45m! |
13c 25m |
|
Ride FA: Chris Weldon, March
2007 – D. Tremaine bolted in 93? And almost sent, but the tuffa
crimper at the top broke off on ‘point. Sure one of “the youngsters” will
send. Almost same start as Jacobs, then moves left out the steeper bulge.
Feels steep and out-there for such a short route. |
13b 18m |
|
Jacobs Ladder This thing finally
got some ascents after years of waiting for a true 2nd. Another
1991 line and then 1992 send – seemed really steep back then and burly.
Original grade was 13b/c, got in the guide recently as 13c, but really a solid
13 route. The climbing is bouldery, burly and fun. Soon to be a 2nd
pitch … |
13a 18m |
Just up hill from
the left eye, is a new route that goes just left of the right eye at 12a and
all the ay to the top 35m. Up past the 2nd eye is a wall called the
Pacific Theatre, pretty much gets sun all day and can be really hot.
|
Eyes Wide Shut Wow! The Perry’s
did a good one on this – long burly and WAY out there. You feel it. The start
is a bit crappy – don’t be discouraged – it’s 35m long and after bolt 4 it’s
excellent stone. You may wish it had a couple extra at the start, due to the
stone, but then you’d need more draws as it takes 16 and 2 at the anchor.
Exposure! |
12a 35m |
|
Above the
Clouds Looks really hard
– |
13d 25m |
|
Freedom in
Chains If you climb solid
13, it’s the best stone I have been on with Buoux
style pockets. Tops out just shy of the top ledge. Funky burly crux. |
13c 30m |
|
Leaning in the
Wind Todd Guyn took
over and finished the bolting from S. Studer.
Fantastic route – this wall has superb stone! |
12c 30m |
|
Dressed in
Pearls The right most
route on this wall – just left of the big chimney/corner. It is really quite
darn good and yes great stone. The left route is 12d/13a and not so good. |
12a 25m |
There are some
routes out right, on a wall called the Tipperary, but
my suggestion - if you want to climb these routes, go to Barrier or Cougar
Creek, as it's a long way to go for a 5.12 and a few 11s and 10s – even if they
are really good routes. This has nothing to do with the builder(s) just a
suggestion for the traveling climber.
Gear:
Bring at least a 60m
cord, 70m way better, 16 draws and water – NO WATER HERE. Best to have a 70m
cord. There are a few routes at the 30m + length and may require close to 20
draws.
Animals, always a
good subject:
As you know, most
areas have their issues with some kind of nasty thing, maybe Poison Ivy,
Snakes, or torrential rain and mud slides. All the Rockies have are those nasty
ticks, which you'll mostly find at Bataan, as it faces south and home to
Bighorn Sheep and ticks love sheep. Oh yeah, those Bighorn Sheep, they're big
and are really-really quick on this terrain – they have yet to chase anyone,
though I did try to get one to chase a particular short Frenchman – as he was
running up to it to take it's picture, but still unsuccessful; damn! Acephale
has Grizzly Bears, they really like Acephale, as they've been living in this
region for a long time. But, they are much less of a worry than reported. They
have little interest in us and would rather not deal with humans at all. I have
seen two Grizzlies on the way to Acephale, no attacks by a killer crazed
Grizzly up at the 'Phale. Cougars (not the ones from
the bar!) are around, but do stay away for the most part. I have never seen one
yet, which is a good thing, as seeing one is kind of like seeing a Ninja;
mostly associated with a nasty ending.
Grades: Always an issue, but important.
Map:
Websites: